Remembering Rohit Bal, the maverick who was Indian fashion’s John Galiano

Maverick. Magician. Mad.
That’s how Rohit Bal, Indian fashion’s most talented and celebrated designer, will be remembered. As he died on Friday evening at 63, he left the world with the same twinkle and gleam in his dreamy light eyes, as he had always seen.
It is tough to describe who and what Rohit Bal was. ‘Gudda’, as we all knew him was India fashion’s ‘John Galiano’, whose designs knew nothing else but beauty – the beauty which he brought in from his Kashmiri roots, the beauty which he called Kashmiriyat and the beauty which he saw in every Indian woman. As they say, he brought the world of Kashmir down into the world of design.
He was Indian fashion’s OG haute couturier, whose signature design around the louts and peacock motifs remained essentially unchanged throughout his career. However, he skillfully reinvented his clothes for different eras, enjoying several renaissances and building a label that has captured its place in the fashion world’s Hall of Fame.
Each costume had a story to tell through the richly layered, vibrantly coloured and masterful artistry of his cuts. His aesthetic was sophisticated, at times OTT, that sold across classes and cultures. Those long kalidar kurtas and churidars, to his zardozi-laden velvets, were Rohit Bal’s celebration of blatant sensuality. He often said, “I design for a woman who can show she is strong but at the same time is soft and romantic.”
Ironically, his last show, called Kaaynaat – A Bloom in the Universe – held just two weeks ago, was the finale of the Lakme Fashion Week. It was a perfect ode to his homeland Kashmir, celebrating the boundless beauty of nature and celestial beauty. Who knew that would be his swan song, where he gleefully danced around with the models while taking a bow. What a finale to his career and life.
For Gudda, design was an art form. He got inspired by nature, and drew on history, fantasy and folklore to create masterpieces that are desired by every woman around the globe.
He studied history at St Stephen’s College and design at NIFT (National Institute of Fashion. Technology). His strong understanding and influence of history and cultures were palpably visible in his ensembles. What he gave India was an amalgamation of heritage, culture and craft. He once described ‘extravagance’ as the soul of fashion.
As a young fashion journalist way back in the early ’90s, I have followed his design journey these past three decades. He never shied away from maximalism and took pride in the grandiosity of his designs and shows. Even as style trends increasingly moved toward simpler lines and more minimalistic looks, Gudda never considered toning down his work.
His shows were dramatic and a spectacle, where he sent down hordes of models sashaying down the ramp in celebration of colour and couture. Everything about him was grand – be it the designs on his clothes or in interiors. He started a restaurant in Delhi called ‘Veda’ with close friend Suveer Saran, a Michelin star chef, where along with the food, it was the opulent interiors that became a talking point. Suveer, who shared a very close bond with him, describes him as an Emperor. Magician. Visionary. Humanist.
Besides his incredible designs, Gudda was also known to throw extravagant parties. He used to be the toast of every Delhi party, as he swayed through the night, dancing away unshackled every time you saw him. His friends describe him as a free spirit whose home was an open house for everyone. Some called him ‘enfant terrible’, for being outspoken and unfiltered, but everyone loved him.
Gudda was an enigma, who will forever continue to intrigue. His was a life lived with love, passion and grandeur. His designs and ensembles will become museum pieces, as he remains Indian fashion’s most celebrated designer.
Shine on dear Gudda, as you leave behind an immortal legacy which is as timeless as your designs.
And as they say – legends never leave… they live on.